Get the expert tips behind an effortless smoky eye, with makeup artist Joy Adenuga’s step-by-step guide, from cream shadow to perfectly smudged liner.
Written By: Amy Fenton - Published: 05.11.26
Party season is on the horizon, and few looks suit it quite like the smoky eye. Softly undone, effortlessly cool and endlessly adaptable, it’s a beauty classic that never goes out of style. It may seem like one best left to the professionals, but it’s far easier to master than you might think.
In this new edition of In the Chair, renowned makeup artist Joy Adenuga creates the perfect smoky eye, sharing the products she swears by and the techniques to make blending effortless. Every step is optional, so you can stop wherever suits you. Here, Joy demonstrates; precision is far from the point.
Step 1: Start with a Cream Shadow
Joy begins with a cream eyeshadow from Armani Beauty, a permanent fixture in her kit. A little goes a long way: the tiniest amount covers both lids. Using a flat-ended, fluffy brush, press the colour onto the centre of the lid, then blend outwards in light strokes, letting the colour build gradually.
Joy’s tip: “If you struggle with a smoky eye, the best advice I can give you is to always start from the middle of the lid. I know most people say go to the crease, but when you start from the middle, you can blend out from there and make fewer mistakes.”
Step 2: Define the Lower Lash Line
Next, Joy reaches for Charlotte Tilbury’s Exagger-Eyes Easy Eyeshadow Stick. “I love the shape of this because it goes neatly under the eyes,” she says. Looking upwards, trace the stick just beneath the waterline rather than on it, following the natural shape of the eye.
Step 3: Build the Intensity
For more depth, Joy layers a brown powder eyeshadow from Dior over the cream shadow. Pick up the colour on a fluffy brush, tapping away the excess first.
Joy’s tip: “I know most people tap it out on the floor, but that’s a no for me. Always tap it back into the palette.”
Again, start at the centre of the lid and blend upwards and outwards. The powder deepens the colour instantly, while the cream base underneath keeps the finish soft.
Step 4: Smoke Out the Lower Lash Line
Switch to a small, flat brush. Joy recommends one that’s soft and fluffy rather than stiff. Dip just the tip into the same powder shadow, tap away the excess and trace over the cream shadow beneath the eyes, softening the line into a smoky haze.
Step 5: Add Liner (Imperfectly)
To finish, Joy uses Bobbi Brown’s Long-Wear Cream Liner Stick in black, a multitasker that also works on the waterline. Rather than applying it straight to the eye, she picks up the product with a brush for greater control. Rest a finger on the lid to hold it steady, then press the liner along the upper lash line, using the base of the lashes as your guide.
Joy’s tip: “If you struggle with eyeliner, don’t use the product directly. Start with a brush, then when you’re more confident, you can go in straight with the product.”
There’s no need for neatness, either. “It doesn’t have to be precise,” says Joy. A softly smudged line is what gives the look its sultry, lived-in finish.
Step 6: Finish with Mascara
Complete the look with lashings of mascara, wiggling the wand at the roots to coat every lash. It’s the final touch that pulls everything together.
The beauty of this look is that anyone can recreate it at home, and it works for everyone. Keep it simple with a single wash of cream shadow, or layer every step for a deeper, more dramatic smoke. Either way, the choice is yours.
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