The who, what, why

Menswear is having a quiet re-evaluation. After seasons where the buzzword on everyone’s lips has been ‘streetwear’, for Spring/Summer 2019 ‘craft’ and ‘haute couture’ are starting to be whispered.

The epitome of old-fashioned elegance, the suit dominated the shows. Even designers known for their casual collections dabbled in tailoring LIKE WHO. Neon suits, head-to-toe pastels, oversized double-breasted jackets, you name it, it was on the catwalk.

Print clashing also remains a key trend, with the likes of Versace and Valentino leading the way, we’re adding it to our suiting wardrobes.

Our key takeways for the season? Fun, maximalist and elegance rule supreme.

Simon Carter Liberty floral crocker suit jacket £395 / trousers £100 / Liberty painted journey print shirt £130 COMING SOON

First date

Perhaps the most nerve-wracking of them all, the first date is filled with a lot of unknowns. One thing’s for sure though, when it comes to outfitting for multiple possible scenarios, playing it classic and understated is a good bet. The key is to look pulled together but still relaxed, effortless rather than trying.

If your meeting involves some kind of outdoor escapades, we recommend a clean-line parka. For a day date or coffee, a flannel shirt layered over a roll neck top works well. For evening drinks, a great light knit or an Oxford shirt. Bottoms-wise, it’s hard to go far wrong with denim. For more casual settings, choose light or distressed denim and minimalist sneakers. For after-dark rendezvous, go for dark denim and boots. Actually, that wasn’t that daunting was it?

Anniversary

Now here’s the one where you want to actually demonstrate you’re making an effort. Start with grooming. Hair, nails, a great scent, and build your outfit from that.

For such an occasion as this, we recommend looking a little fancier than normal. Go for a grey suit jacket, simple tee underneath and suit trousers cut just above the ankle with box-fresh trainers, or a close-fitting, heritage three-piece suit with brown brogues.

Save your whimsical tie for the office do and leave your work outfits at home. This is the time to look serious but not like you’ve just run straight from a pile of paperwork. Opt for suave and classy and just by your outfit, you’ll show your partner what the occasion means to you.

Steve McQueen

The King of Cool wore everything with confidence. His casual looks oozed a nonchalant appeal, and smart outfits looked polished but - with the addition of his perennial Persol 714 sunglasses - also carefree. His style favourites included neutral chinos, bomber jackets and desert boots. Everything had a clean-lines feel - pared-back and unfussy. So what can we learn from the man? Invest in great basics. Make sure they fit well, keep colours neutral and mix and match for a wardrobe that always speaks of unassuming sophistication.

Style notes: Three-piece suits in greys and checks, double denim, turtlenecks and blazers and, of course, a killer pair of shades.

James Dean

The legendary Hollywood actor is forever remembered for his effortless cool and the power of a great white t-shirt. Paired with jeans, rugged boots and tortoiseshell shades, it’s a timeless look that’s remained cool ever since. The red Harrington jacket he wore in Rebel Without a Cause has become iconic in itself. To channel a piece of James Dean’s undeniable cool, pair a black roll-neck with dark trousers, or a plain tee with a leather biker jacket.

Style notes: White tee, rugged jacket, biker boots and thick-rimmed shades.

Nick Wooster

On top of a stellar fashion career and too many collaborations to count, Nick Wooster is an undeniable style icon. With his instantly recognisable silver hair and groomed moustache, he’s become an Instagram and street style favourite. His signature style is a tailored, smart top half and casual bottoms. Think a blazer, shirt and tie with colour-popping chinos or relaxed, ankle-grazing trousers. In the same vein, he is known for his blazer and shorts combo. The result is a smart, playful and confident look. He’s not afraid of colour and pattern, and rarely does he step out without some rule-breaking but effective surprise in his looks.

Style notes: Shorts paired with suits, military accents, varsity jackets, pops of colour.

David Beckham

David Beckham has remained a style icon for years. He has universal appeal – women swoon, men respect – and an innate ability to pull together an outfit with ease. For casual, he nails layering – shirts worn open over tees, jumper tied around the waist – and denim. His favourites include leather jackets, simple tees and of course, some kind of hat like a beanie or flat cap. His choices are classic but slightly undone. His shirt will be pulled out from the bottom of a jumper and he chooses distressed jeans and hard-working biker boots, which all give a rugged, masculine look.

For formal situations, he always pulls it out of the bag, sporting a suave, well-fitting suit. In a pioneering moment, his Royal Wedding get-up has got us all reaching for our morning suits and slim-fitting grey waistcoats.

Style notes: Hats, slim fit jeans, denim shirts and boots.

Tinie Tempah

Since he burst onto the music scene, Tinie has carved a reputation as one of the best-dressed men in the country. His great sense of taste means he always look perfect for the situation, pulling it off with effortless flair. He’s inspired us with his mix of Saville Row tailoring and streetwear, his statement patterns that don’t look OTT and his oversized, luxe coats. He doesn’t need to wear glasses but they’ve become his trademark. Ambassador for London Fashion Week Men’s and founder of his own label What We Wear, he’s got a strong fashion repertoire and consistently comes out with looks that stretch the boundaries of menswear. Tinie, great job.

Style notes: Blazers, great watches, eyewear and stellar trainers.

You don’t have to wear a suit

Formalwear nowadays doesn’t automatically require a suit. Instead make separates your go-to. Swap your suit jacket for a standout blazer or your suit trousers for chinos. Alternatively, de-construct your three-piece- pairing just the jacket with deep blue chinos and a tee; the waistcoat with stone trousers and a slim-fit shirt; or the trousers with a herringbone jacket.

“Reimagine traditional formalwear”

Sportswear and streetwear is such a continuously big trend. Formalwear today can mean athletic inspired trousers- think black or navy with a colour-pop stripe. It may seem a no-no but a great pair of squeaky-clean sneakers teamed with suit trousers cut just above the ankle is a totally acceptable, fashion-forward option for relaxed dos.

Play with pattern

Checked suits are key this season – both larger checkerboards and mini, subtle checks. Similarly, prints are huge. From the standout Hawaiian shirt trend to the understated printed suit trend, plain doesn’t have to be your only option.

“Think beyond black, navy and grey”

Suits in varied colourways are really on trend for spring and summer. Whether it’s electric blue, saccharine pink or mustard yellow, there’s something instantly celebratory about coloured suiting. If you’re more of the understated type, don’t forget neutrals. Stone, sand and cream all have an innate Italian sensibility about them. And, if you're going for neutrals, don’t be afraid to choose linen. Keep the shapes tailored and it’ll look chic and distinctively summery.

Socks are optional

The days of strict footwear etiquette are behind us. While some occasions may demand you stick to the age-old rules – traditionally you pair the colour of your sock to the colour of your suit trouser and the smarter the occasion, the thinner the sock – nowadays your feet can be the opportunity to show your fashion metal. Choose slim-fitting trousers that sit just above the ankle and pair with loafers or brogues, going sockless.

“Express yourself through accessories”

In the same vein, your accessories are a chance to show some personality. A whimsical, printed tie can add edge to an otherwise standard outfit – either make it a statement or keep the colourway the same but pick a pattern that clashes with your suit. Instead of cufflinks, think of sunglasses and a great watch as your new occasionwear essentials.

Loafers

Inspired by the shoes of Norwegian fisherman, the loafer first made its way onto the scene back in 1936 and has since become the go-to shoe for everyone from Palm Beach holidaymakers to the Ivy League set. Today, the loafer immortalises relaxed, summer workwear. Wear sockless with chinos or suit trousers cut just above the ankle and dress with a slim-fit shirt for easy smart-casual.

“The suave answer to summer workwear”

Trainers

Ah, the trainer. The granddaddy of the footwear world has a strong place in our hearts. While not confined to summer, trainers are perfect for the unpredictable British weather and go with anything, from shorts to jeans to suiting. Graduate to sneaker head status by investing in a collection, and if you find a pair you love, buy two so you have a box-fresh pair ready when one is looking a little less than perfect.

“The failsafe, all-weather favourite”

Sliders

If there’s one piece of footwear that’s gone from no-no to high fashion status, it’s the pool slider. In 1972 Adidas introduced the Adilette in response to the German football team’s need for a shoe for the showers and changing room. The shower shoe – as it was called – became popular with sports teams but when Mark Zuckerberg was depicted wearing them in The Social Network we started to think differently. Now, after a run of catwalk appearances and an iconic Gucci iteration, sliders are back in fashion. Pair with loose, relaxed trousers and wear sockless – unless you’re feeling really daring, in which case pair with ribbed, white socks and be prepared to be papped by street style photographers.

“High fashion in footwear form”

Flip flops

Originally dating back as far as Ancient Egypt, our modern flip flops are in fact a rubber version of the Japanese sandal, the zori. Growing in popularity in America after World War II, flip flops – so called because of the sound they make when they slap the floor – came to epitomise Californian beach style. No longer reserved for holidays, these days they’re just as at home in the pub as they are by the pool.

“For quintessential Cali cool”

Espadrilles

With their rope sole, espadrilles are one of the most instantly recognisable members of the footwear family. They date back to the 13th century, originally made in the Occitania and Catalonia regions of France and Spain, with the name deriving from ‘esparto’, the plant originally used to braid the soles. In some ways they’re the perfect solution to summertime footwear: cool and light while also smart. Equally good teamed with tailored shorts as with jeans, they might just be the only shoe you need to pack come holiday time.

“Simultaneously relaxed and refined”

Moccasins

Before we say anything else, don’t be fooled into thinking moccasins are slippers. They may be the comfiest summer shoe you’ll ever own, but they’re also sophisticated. While they originated from the tribes of North America and were originally made from various hides, today, they've become the go-to occasion shoe. They’re ideal for work and summer dos when paired with slim-fit chinos or light-coloured suits. Alternatively, use them to make a statement by choosing a colour-popping pair worn with jeans turned up. Whoever said style couldn’t be comfortable?

“Respite for weary feet”

Boat shoes

If there’s one shoe that gets us in the summer spirit, it’s the boat shoe, and for this, we have one man to thank. In 1935, Paul Sperry invented a shoe with a moccasin upper and a slip-resistant rubber sole inspired by his dog’s paws to stop himself slipping on the boat deck. These days, they’re associated with style and elegance, think Hollywood legends sipping cocktails on a yacht in St. Tropez. Wear with rolled up chinos, a tucked in shirt and a golden tan.

“Your shortcut to preppy, Riviera chic”

Sandals

Sandals have something of a long history, with the oldest pair ever found thought to be 10,000 years old. They’ve had their fair share of bad press, but in 2018 they’ve become cool once again. Channel geek chic and pair with socks, go for utility and team with cargo trousers or keep it classic with dark, tailored trousers and a tee, sleeves rolled up.

“At 10,000 years old they’re doing something right”

The 14 days when all eyes are on SW19 have finally arrived. Surely the most glamourous sporting event in the UK, Wimbledon is as much about what the spectators are sporting as the sport itself. Heading there yourself? Here’s how to pull off Wimbledon dressing with flair.

CENTRE COURT

If you’re heading to Centre Court, you'll want to look effortlessly put together, without any indication you’re trying. Think light-coloured summer suiting in creams, light blues and greys. Go for a subtle, heritage check and tone down the smart level by switching your shirt for a slim-fit white tee. Alternatively, play with your pairings. Team your neutral suit jacket with navy trousers and a spotted tie, or a pastel pink or sea green blazer with dark chinos and a white shirt and leave your tie at home. When it comes to your footwear, pick Oxfords, suede Derbys or loafers.

ON THE GROUND

Got ground tickets? You can afford to have a bit more fun. A short-sleeved shirt in a ditsy print teamed with chinos or white jeans – a la Joe Swash last year – and loafers will get you on the best dressed list. Otherwise, go for that failsafe combo of mid or long tailored shorts and a striped tee. Keep it suave though – Pimms and baggy sweats don’t mix so well.

GAME ON

If you’re going to be dabbling in a little tennis yourself, go for signature whites. Channel Lacoste, Fred Perry or Bjorn Borg – all founded by tennis legends who are sure to help inspire your A game. From the strawberries to the aces, there’s so much to look forward to. We’ll see you courtside…

Make the UK your bucket list. From stargazing in Northumberland’s International Dark Sky Park – the largest area of protected night sky in Europe – or hanging out with Britain’s only free-grazing reindeer herd in the Cairngorms, explore what’s on your doorstep.

Embrace the things that get your pulse racing. Try wreck diving in Orkney, canoeing in Strangford Lough – one of the locations for Game of Thrones – or scaling Scafell Pike, England’s highest mountain.

Take on a digital detox and turn off your social channels for a week. Reclaim back your lunch hour and use it to go for a run or explore the local area. Cut yourself some slack and make time to intentionally rest this January.

Coach a youth sport, cook for a neighbour, volunteer with a refugee charity or support a ‘haircuts for the homeless’ project.

Brush up on a language or take up a course – think charcuterie, glass blowing or gin making. Read the classics you’ve always wanted but never got round to.

Layer up

The first switch in transitioning from winter to spring is the coat. Pack away your heavy outerwear and slot a perennially cool bomber, rugged trucker or smart/casual mac into your repertoire.

For knitwear, turn to lighter colours and thinner, breathable weaves. Equally, sweatshirts come into their own in spring as the ideal middle ground – perfect on their own or layered under a jacket.

“The master of layering has a wardrobe of relatively staple items that he twins with designer items”

Let David Beckham be your guide for successful spring dressing. Want to know how he does it? Paul Hayes, Menswear Senior Buyer at House of Fraser, decodes Beckham’s look: “The master of layering has a wardrobe of relatively staple items that he twins with designer items. This formula makes that old T-shirt or well worn pair of jeans look brand new.” For in-between weather, he’ll wear a T-shirt and beanie, or denim shirt layered under a light safari jacket.

COMING SOON: Howick classic khaki baseball cap

Working wardrobe

There's some good news for your working wardrobe, as one of the biggest trends for SS18 is a fresh new take on suiting. But this time around we're looking at a beautiful rainbow of colours, from dusty pink to electric blue.

“Be a little more daring with your workwear wardrobe”

Office codes are also changing. Spring – with all its new season optimism – gives you a chance to mix it up. Change your shirt for a striped tee, wearing with your suit blazer, trousers and trainers. Wear subtly patterned shirts with khaki trousers, or go for a luxe bomber and chinos.

COMING SOON: Label Lab Joel pink velvet blazer

Colour code

"For an evolving wardrobe without the footballer price tag, choose contrasting colours from the same palette,” advises Anita Ross, Personal Shopper at Jenners, Edinburgh. Blue with subtle accents of orange or yellow, for example, is always stylish. Try introducing pattern and colour into your wardrobe through statement tees and pastel Oxford shirts.

“Choose contrasting colours from the same palette”

A few simple changes can breathe fresh air into your outfits. Swap cords for jeans, boots for trainers and scarves for aviator sunglasses and buy items that can work just as well for weekends as they will for smart-casual, from chinos to shirts.

COMING SOON: Turner & Sanderson Fairford monkey paisley silk tie